Capitol Reef National Park petroglyphs, orchards, and pie

10 months ago 92
July 06, 2023

At Capitol Reef National Park successful south-central Utah, past layers of chromatic basal exposed successful a red-rock desert. Formed into turrets, reefs, and domes by geologic uplift and past the dilatory erosion of h2o implicit millennia, the park’s layered stone tells the past of the Earth to those who tin work it. It has besides witnessed the comings and goings of quality residents since astir 300 CE.

Capitol Reef visitant center

We visited successful aboriginal May during our RV roadworthy trip, and I enjoyed the taste stories of Capitol Reef arsenic overmuch arsenic its castle-like pinnacles and hills of folded rock.

Capitol Reef is described arsenic a wrinkle successful the Earth’s surface. How was the wrinkle formed? First, past seas, deserts, swamps, and rivers roseate and fell implicit the eons to make 10,000 feet of sedimentary rock.

Between 50 and 70 cardinal years ago, 2 tectonic plates collided, and the onshore was pushed up arsenic precocious arsenic 7,000 feet. The stone didn’t ace nether the dilatory unit that lifted it up. Instead it bent and folded implicit the responsibility line. Water did the remainder betwixt 1 and 6 cardinal years ago, eroding the precocious layers of stone to exposure the ancient, uplifted sedimentary layers. And voila, a furniture barroom of stone.

A meandering watercourse on the basal of a cliff continues the enactment that created this antithetic landscape.

Ancestors of today’s Hopi, Zuni, and Paiute tribes, known arsenic the Fremont radical aft the stream that runs done the canyon, made imperishable settlements present and farmed the flood plain for a 1000 years, from astir 300 to 1300 CE.

They carved images of radical oregon spirits and animals into the reddish rock, creating petroglyphs that stay to this day.

Whatever they meant to convey whitethorn beryllium shrouded by time, but these lasting impressions of their civilization captured my imagination.

Around 1300 CE, the Fremont radical near this area. No 1 knows why. Afterward, nomadic tribes passed through, but nary 1 other settled present until the Mormons came successful the 1880s.

Mormon settlers eked retired a surviving by planting orchards of apple, pear, cherry, apricot, peach, and different effect trees successful the fertile flood plain.

They named their municipality Fruita, and a fistful of families lived present for decades, until the past household sold their onshore to the National Park Service successful 1969. Irrigation ditches and heirloom effect trees remain, maintained by NPS.

At the Gifford Homestead, a preserved Mormon farm, small effect pies are sold regular — and merchantability retired daily! We’d heard it was imperative to illustration the pastry and happily complied.

We devoured a peach pastry aft a picnic luncheon on the river.

Yum!

The Gifford barn and horses greet you astatine the homestead, with those melodramatic canyon walls making a sunset-hued backdrop.

In aboriginal May, astir of the effect trees had already flowered, but the apples were inactive holding onto cottony blossoms.

One much histrion against those striking cliffs

Other structures from the Mormon settlers remain. Elijah and Tabitha Jane Behunin settled present successful the 1880s but lasted lone a year. Their household of 15 called this rock-walled compartment home, if you tin judge it.

“It was not an casual spot to homestead. The crops they planted were washed retired by flash floods, and the compartment was lone ample capable for Elijah, Tabitha Jane, and their youngest children. The older boys slept successful a sandstone alcove, portion the older girls slept successful a covered wagon box.”

https://www.nps.gov/places/behunin-cabin.htm

Here’s an aged photograph of these hardy souls.

Capitol Reef is overmuch little developed than Zion oregon Bryce Canyon, and the views are little melodramatic arsenic well. But inactive interesting! We took 1 of the reddish ungraded roads toward the rocky reef.

I privation I could amusement you the Capitol Dome that the parkland is partially named for, but I don’t retrieve seeing it. But we got an eyeful of the “reef,” the uplifted hills that blocked question for aboriginal settlers. Some sections of domed stone are creaseless and gray, similar a humpback whale coming up for a enactment of air.

Photos don’t adequately convey the strangeness of the stone formations, similar this slope-sided mesa with a constrictive fin of stone on the crest.

Or these white-rock hills that lucifer dollops of whipped cream.

At overlooks we admired the views and the wildflowers that added spots of colour successful a harsh landscape.

Diagonal uplift

And more

Gray and purple stone layers with an eroded fin connected top

This presumption astir reminds maine of the Texas Hill Country. But we had acold to spell yet earlier turning to home.

Up next: Beautiful Canyonlands National Park and thrilling Shafer Trail. For a look backmost astatine the vast scenery of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, click here.

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